Why you do Flat Felled Seams.

Flat Fell Seams are a type of seam best used for items that are not lined. You basically sew your normal seam- then take the edges of those seams and roll them under themselves. When you flat fell a seam, it protects the edges, keeps the edges from fraying, and creates a stronger seam.

Yes, it takes longer ( and a bit more patience) to flat fell your seams....but it is way worth it in the long haul.

I however, did not take the time for some reason to flat fell (or even serge) Luka's linen fighting waffenfrock. This was stupid because:
1. I thought I would go back and do it later...I never did.
2. When I did go back to do it, the seams had already started to fray
3. ALWAYS, always finish ALL your seams on anything that will be washed and/or used for fighting in.
4. If something( such as linen) is going to be smashed (or hit with a sword) pinned, (between a sword, shield, and armor) or will be rubbing against steal (like when you move in armor) ALWAYS finish your seams so they are not exposed.

Here is an image from Lukas's frock of the waffenfrock. Notice the yucky seams....

I spent ALL weekend, pinning, ironing, and sewing these down. I found by using fray check and letting it dry, that it made it mucho easier to pin and sew.

In the second picture, you can clearly see where the seams have been folded under and pinned. On the right is the one where I fray checked it first, and the one is the left I pinned without fray check. HUGE difference. Now, you just can fray check, you still need to encase your seams, as fray check will wash out.

For more information about Flat Felled Seams & Tutorials visit: http://renaissancetailor.com/demos_machineseams.htm
http://www.sewing.org/enthusiast/html/el_sewamflatfell.html

Some places I have found refrence to period Flat Felled Seams:
http://www.havenonline.com/moas/northstar/vol1no3/CLOTHING%20(Tarrach)web.htm
http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/mensgarb.html